| 'LONE
EXPLORER' probably isn't a career option
that would be entertained by 'sensible'
people but for Christina Dodwell such an
occupation simply presented itself as if
fate. Ten years ago,
aged 24, she set off on holiday to Africa
with three other people and a Land Rover.
Early on the two men in the party
vanished into the night taking the Land
Rover with them. Christina and her
companion determinedly carried on,
without food supplies or maps in a
semi-desert area, firstly on foot but
soon on horseback when two beasts were
given them by passing road engineers.
"When you're thrown
in at the deep end you either sink or
swim," she told me, "but I
found it was such a learning ground and I
enjoy the learning. Everything changes
once you lose a vehicle and you're down
to your feet or the horses which we had.
You can see the country in a different
way because you can't carry everything
,that you need. You can't carry food
supplies or much water so one becomes
much more dependant on the land and the
villages."
There is a globe trotting
urge that runs in her family. Her
grandparents spent 30 years in China
before moving to Nigeria where Christina
was born and where her parents lived for
20 years.
That first African jaunt
seemed to awake the wanderlust within
Christina and she was off again, "as
soon as I'd done my spell at the Hospital
Of Tropical Diseases and they'd put me on
my feet", to see more of the
Continent and make a 1,000 mile voyage on
the rivers of the equatorial region in a
dugout canoe.
In 1979 she set off for
what was to become a two year trip to
Papua New Guinea, some of it on foot,
some on horseback (on a horse she called
Horse) and four months of it in a canoe
making the first complete navigation of
the Sepik river.
Given a relief map of the
globe, Christina goes for the lumpy
parts. The PNG journey was made with a
modicum of planning. Not surprising as it
is one of the least well-charted regions
on the planet and A-Z's are hardly two a
penny.
"I found an
encyclopaedia that said it had some of
the wildest and most treacherous country
in the world, that was part of the lure.
I love remote places and mountains, I'm
not frightened of that kind of thing. It
seemed obvious that I should go and find
out about it in the travelling.
"I didn't have any
deadline, I just felt it would take as
long as it took. I suppose I was setting
off for between one and two years or
possibly three. It entirely depended on
the journey itself which I didn't plan
out. I didn't even have a map of the
country I couldn't find anywhere
to buy one.
"In a journey of two
years you have time to learn as you go.
It's like language. I'm on my own so
there's no one to talk English to and I'm
forced to learn a new language if I want
to communicate."
The people of Papua New
Guinea speak Pidgin a quaint blend
of Melanesian grammar with words of
English, German, Malay, Portuguese and
others. For example; 'Hoss brok-im
leg. Im bugarap tru' Horse
broke leg. Him buggered up true.
"One begins to tune
in a great deal to people's facial
muscles when they speak and their tone of
voice. Straight away you can tell if
they're greeting you, threatening you or
warning you about some problem up ahead.
"In the villages the
women would make sure that I observed the
local customs so that I didn't
unwittingly cause offence. The men would
always treat me like a man. They said I
clearly wasn't just a woman women
didn't do what I was doing, their's
didn't anyway. They gave me the status of
'honorary man'.
They say that fear is a
man's best friend. But for an 'honorary
man'?
"It didn't occur to
me to be afraid. If you begin thinking
that you ought to be afraid you start
reacting differently to situations. You
start seeing situations as threatening
which needn't be. Or you can allow a
situation to get out of control which
could have been kept in control if
perhaps you had shaken hands and said,
pleased to meet you, what a wonderful
country, I met your chief the other day,
I'm from a village in England, which is
your village?'.
"Of course, the
moment you know their village that means
there is no point in them attacking you
at all because you can go straight to
their headman. That kind of thing is
frowned upon. In deep bush the moral code
is much stricter than around towns.
"I'd learnt that
there was no reason to be afraid and that
people have no desire to harm you. Not
being armed means that after a while your
wits sharpen up. I've tried crazy ways of
dealing with situations. Among the ones
that don't work are 'the wrath of God',
that something terrible will smite them
they don't seem to believe that.
One quite good one is 'my husband, who is
a large angry policeman and our five
children are waiting for me in the next
village' that puts people
off!"
I'll remember that next
time I'm stuck behind someone in Tesco's.
In her travels, Christina has spent time
with cannibals. The popular imagination
sees tourists being boiled in big black
pots, with camera still slung around
neck, searching through their phrase
books for 'what's cooking?'.
"In New Guinea there
are odd pockets of cannibals but it isn't
anything that has any threat or anything
to do with the traveller. It's something
that's very superstitious. I spent a day
with some cannibals but certainly didn't
feel any threat. In Africa you can tell
them because they sharpen their teeth to
points. They say that human meat clings
to the bone and you need sharp teeth to
get it off."
And if she was invited to
dine?
"I'd eat with them.
Cannibalism is a very traditional
celebration, it isn't just done for diet,
it isn't a meal as such. It can be part
of the baptism of a boy child or eaten in
respect of a dead person (to let their
spirit free). It has its reasons and it
certainly isn't a question of throwing
travellers into the pot and eating human
flesh for supper."
Christina has sampled
culinary delights such as crocodile's
tail, rhino hump and elephants trunk
("nice if sliced thinly and eaten
cold"), all considered delicacies in
Africa. In Papua New Guinea the staple
fare of kaukau (sweet potatoes) would
sometimes be livened up by, among other
things, maggots.
"When one's eaten
maggots three or four times one isn't
squeamish and if someone brings you a
bowlful that they've spend the day
gathering it would be impolite to go
'urgh!'. I have a caste-iron digestive
system fortunately, I seem able to eat
anything without ill effects although I
had one bad day after eating a piece of
rotten camel. I think that if you build
up slowly by eating what's got just a few
bacteria you then become immune to all
but the most virulent form of
nasties."
I ask my interviewee to
roll her sleeve up. On her left shoulder
she has the star-mark of the crocodile's
forehead. It is impressive. I dropped my
truth drug syringe! The mark was made in
the PNG village of Kraimbit during the
skin cutting ceremony which initiates
boys into manhood. Their flesh is cut
from their bellies, up their chests, over
their shoulders then down their backs and
legs.
"Once they've been
through that, which is a blood ritual
dedicated to the crocodile, they can meet
every difficult situation knowing that
they've had the courage to go through
skin cutting. it represents a kind of
triumph over the crocodile spirit.
"I'd spent a month in
the region watching and helping the
people get ready. There was a full week
of sing-sing, drumming and
dancing from dusk till dawn and everybody
still feasting and celebrating. One
starts to get a bit light-headed, the
fear is much less that way. I didn't know
it was coming, they sprang it on me.
After they'd finished cutting the
initiates they said 'are you ready to be
marked by the crocodile?'. I said 'yes'.
"I've never regretted
it, that mark is part of me. It was the
highest honour they could give me."
During her adventures
Christina keeps a diary and her account
of the trip, in Papua New Guinea has
recently been published in paperback by
Picador (£3.50) her previous
volumes have included Travels With
Fortune and An Explorer's Handbook.
For Christina these books
help finance the next expedition and aid
analysis of her experiences. For the
reader they present enjoyably clear
writing with the simple insights and lack
of clutter that one won expect from
someone who called her horse Horse.
"Writing is a
separate adventure, I wouldn't like to
travel in order to write about it because
then I think the journey would be
commercially motivated which would spoil
for me. I only write about it because I
have such a fun time and would be a shame
if it wasn't written. I enjoy the writing
as well. It's usually done when I travel
around Europe or America civilised
areas because that's where can get paper!
"Writing can bring it
all back very vividly. If I'm writing
about a place where food was extremely
short I'll keep dashing off to the
kitchen to get something to eat. If I'm
writing about going across the desert
I'll need endless cups of water."
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